Ed Wall Media   Elevated cocktails are all the rage these days, part of the craft cocktail craze in which ingredients such as homemade syrups, hand-squeezed juices, and artisanal bitters are used to take creative concoctions to new heights. Sounds like a little too much thinking going on, to tell you the truth. Here's the kind of cocktail I like after a morning in the duck muck: I like a little something that reminds me of where I just came from, something a little earthy, a little musky, with a little nose of wet dog and a nice finish of old canvas. This tends to lead me to brown water of some sort, but not always. I'm likely too tired for a lot of muddling and mashing, so pouring and stirring are about as complicated as I want to get. And please, no blenders. I like a cocktail in a real glass that is sheathed in condensation that glistens with reflections from a fire. I like a pour that makes you cock your head just a bit, but not so stiff that you bite your lip and wonder how you're going to get up at 5 a.m. for the third morning in a row. I like to tip it back when my Lab, Minnie, is conked out on the floor in front of me, her four black legs twitching as she dreams of ducks overhead and ducks on the water and ducks to come. I raise a glass to her dreams, and mine. Sounds pretty swell, huh? Here's a solid mixed bag of drink recipes and ideas that would fit right in. STRAIT LAKE SMOKY OLD FASHIONED During waterfowl season, Chef John Fearr